Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
First established in the late 1980s in Hammersmith, the Gate has finally opened a second branch in Islington, morphing in every respect to match its far-trendier surroundings. The only thing not modern and breezy about this vegetarian restaurant (a former Victorian butcher’s) is the ornate, listed tiling on one side of the room – a unique feature that reflects the equally original menu.
Food here has a Middle Eastern twist, far more ethnic than its Hammersmith sister. Pick from either the meze menu – fritters bursting with salty feta flavour; tart mushroom ceviche; featherlight artichoke tempura – or the carte, which refreshingly avoids using meat substitutes. Squeaky halloumi drizzled in a tikka marinade to start was well cooked, but a little mean in portion size for £6.50.
For mains, asparagus rotolo (a cheesy roll-up of Mediterranean vegetables and thyme potato) was as light as soufflé, and Thai favourites were piled high in a spicy summer salad, topped with an abundance of crushed peanuts.
Friendly but uninformed waiters need more time to get used to the menu, and although our seasonal crumble with crème anglaise did the job, we would have preferred an extra round of meze instead.
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