Myddleton Road in Bowes Park is one of the last of a dying breed of London high streets: a hardware store sells handy items, there’s a beautiful public garden… but quaint it ain’t. The clothiers have dusty windows, and the shops are too dilapidated even for those craving retro chic. It’s also too far from trendy areas to invite artistic re-generation.
It’s a surprise then, that in an area where the signs of gentrification have yet to manifest, a young couple have taken over a fading Irish pub and transformed it into The Step. It’s now a light and spacious café and wine bar, full of delightful art deco touches.
The menu is unambitious – they cook the dishes in facilities nearby – but is admirably particular about local food sourcing. Organic bread and cakes come from local sources including Celtic Bakers in Wood Green, charcuterie and meat are all British, and the Meantime lager on tap is brewed in Greenwich.
Our lentil and mushroom stew was generous if slightly underseasoned. The rest of the menu is a mix of soups and tarts, cheese and charcuterie boards, ‘light-ish’ bites of Suffolk chorizo and even afternoon tea (bookable in advance). The selection of cakes on the day was limited – ‘awaiting delivery’ – but the two types of carrot cake we tried were delicious.
There is a separate kids’ menu with dinosaur-shaped sarnies and spuds in paper cones – questionable tactics some may say; or wise, as there’s a nursery just down the road.
There are events planned in the evenings, such as vintage crafts workshops and live music.