Theo Randall at the InterContinental
Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
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Time Out says
Tue Jun 26 2012
The name gives few clues, but there can be hardly an Italian food lover unaware that since 2007, following a long stint as head chef at the renowned River Café, Theo Randall has been turning out peerless Italian cuisine in this Mayfair hotel restaurant. No doubt the outstanding-value set lunches and pre-theatre suppers aren’t much of a secret either, but if you find a ‘special deal’ that includes a glass or two of wine from a dream list, seize the first opportunity to sample a sublime experience at unusually democratic pricing.
The setting is as you’d expect: a sizeable space in shades of cream, brown and olive green, replete with leather and smoked glass. The staff were exceptional, their unfussy, smiling presence a relaxing joy. The wine (including prosecco and the ‘lowliest’ reds and whites) is as great as your budget allows; but the food, even at set-menu level, somehow continues to defy expectations.
Generosity of spirit has something to do with it – focaccia is verdant with olive oil, ravioli impossibly plump, the finest prosciutto underscores even cooked dishes. Determined sourcing plays its part with the likes of datterini, camone and san marzano tomatoes complementing the finest British produce. Ultimately, though, it’s breathtaking skill that renders guinea fowl skin so crisp, golden and scented, and fills the thinnest, buttery pastry shell with an impossible depth of gold-hued, zesty amalfi lemon cream. Simply sublime.
Special Offers
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2 courses with a glass of prosecco £27
Offer applies to Set Menu. Maximum of 6 diners. Includes VAT, excludes service.
Offer valid until Sep 10 2013
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