Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
The young team behind Trullo have made a success of a difficult site just off Highbury Corner roundabout, and the place has settled down to being a super-popular local serving some of the best food in Islington. On a Saturday night the joint was jumping, with the two simply decorated floors (ground and basement) fully booked. Smiley staff expertly choreographed the melee – vital when most tables have two sittings – but, even so, we still had to stand at the basement bar for ten minutes. This was the one blot on an otherwise impeccable evening. The bar means cocktails (negroni, martini) in addition to an all-Italian wine list.
The menu packs a lots of interest into a short space, and changes from day to day; a choice of antipasti included good pork neck carpaccio with smashed Italian peas and Selvapiana Estate olive oil, and a sprightly salad of broad bean, pecorino, little gem lettuce and mint. Primi featured tagliatelle with cuttlefish, chilli and garlic, and pappardelle with beef shin ragù – both produced appreciative murmurs. Creamy burrata with slightly under-seasoned chickpeas and a zingy Sicilian tomato bruschetta was a big portion that ultimately lacked star quality; better was Hampshire pork chop (from the charcoal grill; a chunky piece of meat for £16.50), with braised Florence fennel and salsa verde. On a hot night, melon granita took the dessert laurels, but caprese chocolate torte was good too, and there are Italian cheeses for £9. Prices are laudable, especially for the quality.
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