Mildred's

Reservations aren't taken at this Soho old-timer, so arrive promptly for lunch or dinner to secure one of the nicer tables under the skylight at the back, and to avoid peak-time clatter. Mildred's has lost none of the qualities that made it successful at its original Greek Street premises.

Clean white walls, Formica tables and muddy orange banquettes create a simple aesthetic, and friendly staff are helpful and answer questions knowledgeably. As we dithered over the fresh juice selection, the waitress (unbidden) brought over a beetroot, apple and ginger concoction to sample.

The menu features regulars like burger and chips, sausage and mash and vegetable stir-fry on brown rice, but also reveals an enticing range of global influences. We shared some perfectly judged gyoza dumplings, followed by a surprisingly mild (but deeply flavoured) Sri Lankan curry, and a hefty burrito. Afterwards, the likes of fruit crumble, and banana and coconut tofu cheesecake had to be ignored in favour of pavlova. This lacked a soft centre, but strawberries, cream and sugar work in any manifestation.

We weren't the only happy customers; the young women next to us were so keen they asked if the manager was hiring.