Sagar

Popular with students and aficionados of South Indian vegetarian cuisine, Sagar has gained renown for its keenly priced homely cooking - so much so that the owners now have four outposts across London. Unlike many cafés on King Street, this, the original branch, is an attractive, upmarket-looking place, furnished with blond wood fittings and a restrained display of Indian artefacts.

As for the food, the good news first: the dosas are wonderful - golden and crisp on the outside and lightly spongy underneath - making an ideal foil for the filling of crushed potato masala seasoned with nutty-tasting mustard seeds.

However, we've recently noticed a drop in standards at this branch. It's the accompaniments that are the problem. The sambar has lacked many of the soft and flavoursome vegetables (aubergines, onions and tomatoes) that make this lentil and tamarind gravy appealing. Equally dispiriting, the coconut and coriander chutney was without the much-loved peppery addition of curry leaves and popped mustard seeds.

We hope that success isn't making the management complacent; Sagar has been one of the best places to sample vegetarian South Indian cooking - and we miss its exacting culinary standards.