The Table

Dining at the Table is a bit like eating in a design showroom - the steel fittings, new wooden tables and clean lines create a minimalist space that's brought to life by the open kitchen. A potentially soulless vibe is avoided thanks the relaxed busyness of the engaged chefs. The sound of gentle conversation pervades the space, which is as suited to business breakfasts and sole diners as it is to couples and small groups.

Dedication to top-drawer ingredients is evident in the displays of wines, condiments and (Chegworth Valley) juices. The modern approach extends to the menu, whose contemporary British dishes - very much in the 'local is best' camp - are infused with Mediterranean flavours.

A starter of smoked haddock was made light and fresh with mint and coriander. Sea bass stuffed with dill was perfectly complemented by chargrilled fennel and tomato, while ham hock 'tartine' with chickpea and rose harissa salad and poached duck egg was tasty and attractively presented. Quality produce makes up for the fact that portions are on the small side. Weekend brunches, when the huge windows provide a lovely light, are a treat here.