Laughing Halibut

'Nice piece of fish - out of the Thames?' quipped a portly gentlemen in this back-to-basics takeaway and caff. 'Yeah, I pulled it out myself this morning' came the deadpan response. We like the Halibut's front and lack of pretension, but our crunchily fried haddock didn't seem as fresh as this gent's; the flesh collapsed out of its snug batter shell rather than waiting to be forked into firm flakes. Service is appealingly cheeky and swift, chips and batter are golden and crisp, but the menu over-extends itself (spring rolls, pies, a terrifying breakfast that lists burger, sausage and bacon before the eggs even get a look in), and tartare sauce comes in a squeezy sachet. Things were far busier at the popular takeaway counter at the front. The rear seated section, with its fixed tables, is certainly no looker; we liked the mosaic fish but have never gone a bundle on plastic sea life and ersatz fishing nets. Proudly advertising itself as selling 'Traditional British Fish & Chips', the Laughing Halibut means what it says: for better and worse.