With an increasing variety of good, moderately priced restaurants in and around Covent Garden, this large basement branch of 'MasterChef' winner Thomasina Miers’s Mexican ‘street food’ chain is nowadays healthily rather than unpleasantly busy.
As at the other branches, decor is deliberately, cheerfully, market-stall bright. It matches well with the tapas-style sharing ethos that makes Wahaca popular with families.
At night, the buzzy atmosphere, decent tequilas and Mexican beer (served also in chelada or michelada beer-cocktails) appeal to local workers and tourists.
Although fairly enjoyable, a meal here seems like Mexican ever so slightly out of focus: ‘British steak, the Mexican way’ (slivers of steak with green rice, spring onions and house salsas); a quesadilla of new potatoes, broad beans, peas, feta and mint; a chicken taquito with tomato and Lancashire cheese; ‘baja cheese’ made from farmhouse cheddar and mozzarella.
Still, service is swift and bustling yet warm, and the menu is very approachable.
Choose between ‘platos fuertes’ (main dishes such as burritos or a succulent pork pibil) or ‘street food’ (small plates to share). Puddings include the welcome but unsurprising churros, a passionfruit cheesecake and dulce de leche ice-cream.