An oral history of Wong Kei
Since opening in the 1980s, Wong Kei has become one of Chinatown’s most iconic hallmarks, specialising in Cantonese dishes as well as famously blunt service. Minimalist decor of white walls, pale blue table tops and red velvet chairs creates a chacaanteng (Hong Kong diner) frozen in time, and while portions aren’t the most generous, taste and quality are always reliable. I’d particularly recommend their Malaysian-style tung choi, water spinach with shrimp paste, which Wong Kei makes especially flavoursome but crucially not overly salty.
You also can’t go wrong with their gōn cháau ngàuh hó: arguably the most quintessential chacaanteng noodle dish, a comforting blend of oily, chewy and beefy. While it’s impossible to find anywhere in London that has the same consistency of noodles as wonton mein in Hong Kong, Wong Kei’s broth and wontons still deliver when it comes to umami depth of flavour.