A local's guide to St Kilda

Don’t be fooled by the flashing neon sign out the front - Pars Kebab (25 Fitzroy St) is far from just another kebab shop in St Kilda. A newcomer to the Fitzroy Street dining scene, Pars Kebab is already a firm favourite among locals, specialising in Persian street food – think fresh lamb, chicken and falafel wraps, platters, salads, pita bread and hummus, with picnic packs to share.  

Manu of Manu’s Bistro (17 Fitzroy St) took the plunge by opening at the beginning of Melbourne’s first lockdown, thinking he would ease into his new venture after working as head chef at some of the world’s top restaurants. Needless to say, his homemade international cuisine has been exceedingly popular – choose from herb-scented gnocchi with roasted butternut squash and walnuts, authentic Sri Lankan lamb curry with freshly grilled roti or a Mexican corn fritter burger, among many, many other breakfast, lunch and dinner options. The one-man band makes the entire menu by himself and bakes fresh bread and other goodies from scratch every morning.

Blu Oyster Co (45A Fitzroy St) is another St Kilda newbie, an oyster bar already highly rated by locals, shucking and serving fresh Blackman Bay oysters and Mooloolaba prawns to order and eat on the spot or take home for dinner. Pick up a dozen to enjoy on St Kilda Beach at sunset, with your drink of choice from St Kilda Cellars next door.

If it’s silver service you’re after, St Kilda also delivers in spades. Melbourne fine-dining institution Café Di Stasio (31 Fitzroy St) blends exceptional service with its gritty Fitzroy Street charm as part of restaurateur Rinaldo Di Stasio’s exploration of “Italianality”, creating an ambience you will find nowhere else in Melbourne. Similarly, Stokehouse (30 Jacka Blvd) offers excellent Australian-inspired beachfront fare, with an awarding-winning wine list to match.

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Little Prince Wine (2 Acland St) has filled a gaping hole in St Kilda’s foodie scene with its boutique cellar and gourmet deli options. Pick up some charcuterie to go with your favourite drop or perhaps something new, recommended by resident sommelier, Laurent Rospars. The contemporary wine bar and bottle shop form part of the fully renovated Prince Hotel, alongside Prince Public Bar, Prince Dining Room and the newly opened (dog-friendly!) Prince Rooftop. If you want to try all the Prince has to offer, you can also book an overnight staycation.

For one of the most popular views in St Kilda, Luna’s Food & Wine Bar (30 The Esplanade) is the place to be. Not to be confused with Lona St Kilda (64-66 Acland St), although both venues are well worth visiting, Luna’s occupies a prime position on the Esplanade opposite Luna Park and the Palais Theatre, ideally located for an Insta-worthy sunset. The best part? They’ll treat your dog as part of the family with healthy homemade dog treats, while you make your way through the creative cocktail list.

Fondly known by all as the Espy, everyone has a story about their time(s) at St Kilda’s Hotel Esplanade (11 The Esplanade). Since reopening in late 2018, the Espy has again become a vortex in St Kilda, drawing all who visit in for an afternoon or evening of entertainment. Whether you’re dropping in for a sunset cocktail, catching a gig or indulging in the flavourful Cantonese cuisine of Mya Tiger, there is no pub quite like The Espy.

Oozing moody period-era charm with its original art deco décor, St LuJa’s (9 Fitzroy St) killer selection of carefully curated cocktails is complemented by an extensive whiskey list; pick your poison and then pick a table on the street to watch the sunset on St Kilda’s palm trees. Thursdays are steak night – get a 250-gram porterhouse steak cooked to your liking, with chips, salad and a glass of the house red or white for $20.

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Pick up a fresh loaf of bread or buttery pastry to enjoy with your coffee at Rye + Dough (149 Fitzroy St), St Kilda’s popular artisan bakery that bakes everything from organic European and Australian ingredients daily.

Prince Public Bar (29 Fitzroy St) also makes an excellent Niccolo coffee.

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The St Kilda Esplanade Market is a popular year-round attraction, drawing artists and makers from all over Australia to display their work and promote their wares, from jewellery and original clothing to olive oils and other gourmet food products. Successfully operating since 1970, the market is a must if you’re in the area on a Sunday. 

Specialising in bringing the people of St Kilda items they never knew they needed for the past 24 years, Urban Attitude (152 Acland St) is a one-stop gift shop filled with novelty items and limited-edition collector pieces. While Captain Planet air fresheners and SpongeBob SquarePants socks make perfect stocking fillers, you’ll also find hilarious greeting cards to suit any of your friendships and an extensive range of eco-friendly homewares.

If you want to spoil your fur babies, look no further than Since Paws (151A Fitzroy St), home to quirky and boutique pet products, including cactus-shaped cat scratchers and avocado-shaped dog beds. You can also book your dogs and cats in for grooming services.

Roller skating never went out of fashion at St Kilda’s Rolla Bae Skate and Wellness Club. Buy or hire your favourite pair of Impala skates and cruise along the St Kilda promenade towards Port Melbourne in one direction or Elwood in the other. If you’re after a lower-impact form of exercise, Rolla Bae also offers beach yoga and strength and conditioning classes. Look for the pink caravan next to the Marine Parade skate park.

You’re bound to find a bargain at the Sacred Heart Mission Op Shop (87 Grey St) or Salvos Stores St Kilda (116 Carlisle St), with both regularly replenished with pre-loved furniture and clothing. 

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Australia’s oldest theme park, Luna Park, opened its doors to its first visitors in 1912 and has since welcomed millions of excited people through Mr Moon’s giant smiling mouth. The heritage-listed Great Scenic Railway wooden rollercoaster (which inspired the famous Cyclone rollercoaster at Coney Island in Brooklyn, New York) remains the heart of the park, providing riders the best (and most exhilarating) views of Port Phillip Bay, especially at sunset. 

Opposite Luna Park, the Palais Theatre makes up the other half of St Kilda’s iconic duo. Built in 1927 as a pivotal aspect of the suburb’s seaside entertainment precinct, the Palais’ ongoing refurbishment will ensure its hallowed stage hosts the world’s best entertainers for generations to come. It would be remiss to visit St Kilda without visiting the duo, if only for a photo. 

Then there's the St Kilda Ferry. Embarking on its maiden voyage across Port Phillip Bay to Williamstown in 2016, and offering a cool vantage point towards Melbourne’s CBD, the Coastal Flyer has proven popular among day-trippers and those wanting to escape Melbourne’s heaving road traffic. Route options include a pit stop in Beacon Cove, Port Melbourne. You can phone ahead to bring your bike for transport at the other end.

To witness something really special, head to the end of the St Kilda pier to the St Kilda breakwater shortly after sunset any night of the year. There you may be lucky to spot St Kilda’s colony of more than 1,000 little penguins (St Kilda Penguins), standing on top of the rocks or waddling from one side of the breakwater to the other. Remember to keep your distance and turn the flash off your camera.

If you’re craving some drama, Theatre Works (14 Acland St) has been sharing powerful and culturally relevant performances with the people of Melbourne from an old Parish hall in St Kilda for the past 40 years. Check out what's showing right now via the website.

Stay tuned for announcements about the St Kilda Twilight Market in the O’Donnell Gardens over the summer. Eat, drink, enjoy live music and browse locally handmade arts, crafts, health and wellbeing products and other creative merchandise, all in the shadow of Luna Park every Thursday evening.