Pay attention to the bread baskets and you might learn something: The crunchy, oil-brushed flatbread comes from Sardinia and the soft semolina from Sicily. The best pastas are made in-house: Look for maltagliati in a shredded lamb ragù, or malloreddus studded with mild sausage in a spicy tomato sauce. Pair a glass of Sicilian or Sardinian wine with the grilled pollo picchi pacchi (“chicken in a hurry”), flavored with fresh herbs and pureed olives. Take note, smoke lovers: Pizzas and panini are baked in a wood-burning brick oven.
718 Amsterdam Ave
|Cross street:||at 95th St|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Fri noon–11:30pm; Sat 11am–11:30pm; Sun 11am–11pm|
|Transport:||Subway: 1, 2, 3 to 96th St|
|Price:||Average main course: $14. AmEx, MC, V|
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