Barano

At Rubirosa, Nolita’s throwback Italian joint, chef Al Di Meglio helped bring a slice of Naples to Mulberry Street with family-style pastas and 50-year-old pizza recipes. Now he delves even deeper into the southern Italian region with this South Williamsburg neotrattoria, pulling inspiration from his grandmother’s birthplace, the Neapolitan island of Ischia. Armed with a wood-fired grill and rotisserie in the open kitchen, Di Meglio turns out pizza topped with mushrooms and pancetta; a spit-roasted lamb leg with potatoes al forno; and charred octopus with farro and mint pesto—as well as house-made pastas and hand-pulled mozzarella made to order. Both Italian and Brooklyn wines and beers are available at the 13-seat cactus marble bar, alongside nonalcoholic house sodas (cream, orange-fennel). The 89-seat dining room also plays up the Old World versus New Brooklyn contrast, with leather booths, patina mirrors and pearl-tiled columns.