Dévi (CLOSED)

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Union Square
There are moments when Dévi, an upscale homage to Indian cuisines, shines—as in a toothsome Lahori chicken curry packed with whole cloves, cardamom and peppercorns, or an addictive plate of meaty shrimp marooned on a rich turmeric-colored reduction of tomatoes, chilies, onions and coconut milk. And the bi-level space, outfitted with crushed-velvet banquettes and jewel-toned lanterns conveys a serenity that’s complemented by a warm wait staff. But Dévi fails to truly soar because it stumbles over the simplest dishes—yogurt-marinated tandoori lamb chops are bland, and bhel puri, the ubiquitous Indian snack of puffed rice, chickpea noodles, tomatoes, onions and chutneys, lacks the spicy-sweet, fiery-cool harmony that should leave your mouth happily aglow. A saving grace are desserts like saffron bread pudding bathed in cardamom cream and almond brittle.
Venue name: Dévi (CLOSED)
Contact:
Address: 8 E 18th St
New York
10003
Cross street: between Fifth Ave and Broadway
Opening hours: Mon–Fri noon–2:30pm; 5:30–11pm; Sat 5:30–11pm; Sun 5:30–10pm
Transport: Subway: L, Q, N, R, W, 4, 5, 6 to 14th St–Union Sq.
Price: Average main course: $24; Pre-theater prix-fixe: $40 (includes glass of wine or beer). AmEx, Disc, MC, V
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