Focolare (CLOSED)

Though it’s too early to declare a Little Italy dining renaissance, we welcome this Jersey import, which greets patrons with a classier-than-usual interior: There’s a blazing fireplace, and black-and-white photos of Frank Sinatra and homey ceramics line the walls. Food is pricey, but tasty, and served in giant portions: A pile of risotto, topped with prawns and sprinkled with dill, is rich and warming; tender veal marsala comes with a side of pleasantly bitter broccoli rabe. Skip the linguine (loaded with clams but yearning for garlic) and head straight for dessert: Both fluffy tiramisu and an oozing chocolate cake were supremely good, if familiar.