Among the challenges of opening a second restaurant location is the need to embody the original venue while simultaneously establishing a new, separate identity. It's a feat accomplished by the homey yet refined Fort Greene outpost of the Lower East Side's Gentleman Farmer. Home to an endearing menu of French-farmhouse cuisine with an impressive selection of affordable wines, it exemplifies all the best qualities of its predecessor but in a larger, brighter space with a subtle speakeasy vibe.
Slide into the leather bench seating illuminated by industrial brass sconces and enjoy amply portioned dishes that marry seasonal ingredients with traditional French cooking. Starters include foie gras torchon with mango chutney ($17), twice-cooked mushroom risotto ($16) and a lustrous venison Carpaccio ($14) that delicately tops a spread of Marsala-red meat with bits of red pepper and goat cheese. Tamer palates will find comfort in classic and soulful French onion soup ($9), while fish lovers would be wise to skip the forgettable though serviceable tuna tartare ($16) in favor of the tender grilled octopus ($15) tucked inside a bed of potatoes, chorizo and chickpeas whipped with cumin.
Though designated as a starter, the warm Brussels sprout salad ($12)—crowned with blue cheese and bacon—doubles as a formidable side against any number of meat-centric entrees, among them Bison steak with rosemary gratin ($29), smoked duck breast ($28), and pork filet mignon ($24). Adventurous diners will best appreciate the succulent rabbit ($29) drenched in a creamy butter sauce with hints of mustard seed and peppercorn, or the delightfully supple rack of lamb ($27) seared to crackling perfection under mists of truffle demi glace. But don’t dismiss the velvety Tagliatelle ($21)—deeply aromatic and dredged in pecorino, it’s a welcome vegetarian alternative.
An assortment of cheeses and sweets complete the experience, the highlight being a playful presentation of apple fritters ($10) swathed in salted caramel and cinnamon. It's a fitting way to cap off a feast at a restaurant where classic, comforting fare is the name of the game.
BY: TIME OUT COMMUNITY REVIEWER CHRISTINE FISCHER HEWIT