Per Lei

Featuring white-on-white Mediterranean decor, a danceable soundtrack and bright orange chairs lined up along the sidewalk, this new trattoria—from Enrico Proietti (Baraonda, Bella Blu)—brings the Italian Riviera to the Upper East Side. Wandering by, you may catch a glimpse of the rose petals scattered on the onyx bar and the imposing crystal chandelier. Inside, Italian waiters flirt with patrons and alluring women stare out from Pop Art portraits by artist Fabrizio Musa. Unfortunately, the menu is not as entrancing as the ambience. Some dishes were needlessly complex; one pasta plate combined chewy tagliolini, funky scallops, smoky bacon and artichoke hearts (yes, you can have too much of a good thing). A better bet is the lightly battered fritto misto, featuring shrimp, squid and clams. Our favorite entrée was the veal milanese, an enormous breaded bone-in chop smothered in red onion, arugula and big hunks of tomato. Ultimately, while the food has its ups and downs, the social scene sweetens the deal.