Mother-and-daughter team Dionysia Germani and Nancy Gavopoulou reopened their shuttered, once-popular taverna in a larger space, complete with a roaring hearth. Though rustic appetizers like bubbling feta saganaki and earthy grilled pork sausage were delicious, entrées stumbled. Lamb stew featured tough, fatty meat; a whole grilled dorado was inexplicably oily. Our dessert, thick yogurt with honey and cracked walnuts, wasn’t exactly groundbreaking, but it helped reestablish this comeback eatery as a neighborhood contender.
3207 34th Ave
|Cross street:||between 32nd and 33rd Sts|
|Opening hours:||Tue–Fri 4–11pm; Sat, Sun 1–11pm|
|Transport:||Subway: G, R, V to Steinway St; N, W to Broadway|
|Price:||Average main course: $23. AmEx, MC, V|