Planethailand 212 (CLOSED)

Walk into the dizzying 5,000-square-foot space and you’ll see a video installation by artist Jon Kessler, blood-red ceilings and walls, globular lamps made of bamboo sticks, and giant paintings of pink and green lotus flowers on the floor. The menu is equally dizzying: Diners must make their way through 13 categories, including soups, salads, fried rice, noodle dishes and vegetarian options, seafood, meat, poultry, curries and various types of sushi—160 options in all. Many are good; some are excellent. The savory red-flecked broth of tom yam goong soup, rich with plump shrimp and fresh sprigs of cilantro, balanced the fish and herb flavors without compromising heat. A huge portion of chicken, shrimp, cashews and long beans was crunchy and crispy; and the roasted-chili sauce wasn’t gloopy or overly sweet. Service, however, can lag when the place is busy.