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Photograph: Sean Ellingson
Bold navy doors also open into the small, brightly decorated dining room at Raices. Peruvian chef César Untiveros, who cooked for 20 years in big Miami hotels, has decided that this homier neighborhood restaurant is a better place to show off his native cuisine. Appetizers like ceviche and jalea make way for less traditional entrées such as tallarines saltados, beef or chicken sautéed in ginger and soy sauce and served over linguine. A refreshing ice-cream sampler of coconut, passion-fruit and lucuma (a fruit imported from Peru) flavors beats tiresome flan—if you haven’t already satisfied your sweet tooth with one of the seven types of mojitos.
Venue name: Raices
Address: 25-39 Steinway St

Cross street: between 25th and 28th Aves
Opening hours: Mon–Thu, Sun noon–11pm; Fri, Sat noon–midnight
Transport: Subway: G, R, V to Steinway St; N, W to 30th Ave
Price: Averagae main course: $14. AmEx, MC, V
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