Rosanjin

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Photograph: Peter Dressel
Rosanjin
Tribeca
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An intimate, swank dining room awaits those who come to indulge in the ultimate form of Kyoto-style kaiseki: a two-and-a-half-hour, eight-course dining experience. Unfortunately, an illuminated chiseled-rock wall and luxe seating arrangements (there are but seven tables) do nothing to mitigate the $150 per person price tag; that is the responsibility of the elaborate meal itself, and it comes up short. The tiny courses are hit-and-miss: A dollop of sea urchin in the opener can be both too cold and oddly flavorless, but an artful tower of sashimi several plates later is flawless. A dessert of vanilla ice cream and fruit is too plain for inclusion in what ought to be a medley of delightful surprises.
Venue name: Rosanjin
Contact:
Address: 141 Duane St
New York

Cross street: between Church St and W Broadway
Opening hours: Mon 5:30–10pm; Tue–Sat 11:30am–2pm, 5:30–10pm; Sun 11:30am–2pm
Transport: Subway: A, C, 1, 2, 3 to Chambers St
Price: Eight-course kaiseki: $150. AmEx, MC, V
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