Wonder what Spanish dining was like in the city some 35 years ago? The red-jacketed waiters, tan-vinyl banquettes and irony-free copies of Goyas and El Grecos don’t seem to have changed a bit here. As soon as you’re seated, you get a quartet of appetizers gratis: salty lamb ribs, mussels in vinaigrette, grilled chorizo slices and a no-frills iceberg salad topped with Russian dressing. Paella arrives in a battered gallon-size stewpan; regulars share it for a $2.50 surcharge. Ask for a sauceboat of caramelized-garlic–infused oil, which nudges the paella from good to great.
113 W 13th St
|Cross street:||between Sixth and Seventh Aves|
|Opening hours:||Daily noon–1am|
|Transport:||Subway: F to 14th St|
|Price:||Average main course: $14. Cash only|
|Do you own this business?|