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The Food Imitates Art Award: M. Wells Dinette

RECOMMENDED: Food & Drink Awards 2013 New York’s most cutting-edge art institution ought to have more than a run-of-the-mill snack bar....

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Bi Bim Wells at M. Wells Dinette

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Bone marrow with escargot at M. Wells Dinette

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Smoked chicken at M. Wells Dinette

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Goat cheese and fried crosnes at M. Wells Dinette

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Caesar salad at M. Wells Dinette

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Pork tongue at M. Wells Dinette

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Photograph: Lizz Kuehl

Escargot-and-marrow tart at M. Wells Dinette

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Photograph: Lizz Kuehl

Caviar sandwich at M. Wells Dinette

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Photograph: Lizz Kuehl

Egg flan with foie gras at M. Wells Dinette

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Black Forest charlotte at M. Wells Dinette

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Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

M. Wells Dinette

RECOMMENDED: Food & Drink Awards 2013

New York’s most cutting-edge art institution ought to have more than a run-of-the-mill snack bar. Last year, MoMA PS1 finally got the restaurant it deserved, when the late, lamented M. Wells came back to life as a museum canteen. The PS1 revival has the same over-the-top spirit as the spectacular Queens diner original. Hugue Dufour’s rich, ribald fare, listed on blackboards in the terrifically kitschy public-school setting, can be as challenging as any avant-garde artwork—to your arteries as well as your sense of adventure. The menu, which changes daily, runs to veal brains, blood pudding and big, seared slabs of foie gras. The poultry comes clawed, the bibimbap riff covered in more colorful streaks—chili sauce, maple syrup, yuzu mayo—than a Jackson Pollock. Museum shows can be hit or miss. The best art in the building might be on the plate. M. Wells Dinette, 22-25 Jackson Ave at 46th Ave, Long Island City, Queens (718-786-1800, magasinwells.com)

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