April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman’s original Meatpacking District John Dory was an ambitious, pricey endeavor, but its reincarnation in the Ace Hotel is an understated knockout. Tall stools face a raw bar stocked with a rotating mix of East and West Coast oysters, all expertly handled and impeccably sourced. True to form, the rest of Bloomfield’s tapas-style seafood dishes are intensely flavored. Chilled lobster tastes larger than life, its sweet flesh slicked in an herbaceous tomalley vinaigrette. Meanwhile, warm dishes take their cues mostly from the garlic-and-olive-oil belt—meaty octopus doused in aioli, plus miniature mussels stuffed with boisterous mortadella meatballs. Though the utilitarian sweets aren’t worth sticking around for, the savory food here merits the inevitable wait for a table.
|Venue name:||The John Dory Oyster Bar||Contact:|
|Cross street:||at 29th St|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Sat noon–2am|
|Transport:||Subway: N, R to 28th St|
|Price:||Average small plate: $14. AmEx, MC, V|
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