Toledo is midtown’s cushier version of downtown’s traditional paella palaces. Low-lit, wood-paneled dining rooms encourage conversation, which courtly, old-fashioned waiters take care not to interrupt. Starters and meat entrées are competent, but that paella is stellar: garlicky, saffron-spiked, stuffed with meltingly tender scallops and chewable clams. You’ll shell out a little more than you would in the Village, and you won’t care.
6 E 36th St
|Cross street:||between Fifth and Madison Aves|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Fri noon–10pm; Sat noon–11pm|
|Transport:||Subway: 6 to 33rd St|
|Price:||Average main course: $25. AmEx, DC, Disc, MC, V|