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This gem is true to its name. Executive chef Steven Zobel’s menu is full of confident balancing acts in which no ingredient is superfluous. Pumpkin wontons, a seasonal dish, make sweet, chewy counterpoints to the herbed Parmesan broth and white-truffle oil in which they are served. On the permanent menu, you’ll find pan-seared sea scallops with porcino mushrooms in foie gras butter. Coriander-crusted Australian rack of lamb yields wonderful flavors and juices, which Zobel takes to another level with port-soaked, foie gras–stuffed prunes. The remarkable desserts, such as profiteroles in butterscotch sauce, are irresistible; the Pavlova, a meringue shell filled with whipped cream and fresh fruit, is as light and

airy as the legendary dancer’s form.

Venue name: Triomphe
Address: The Iroquois, 49 W 44th St
New York
Cross street: between Fifth and Sixth Aves
Opening hours: Mon–Fri 7–10:30am, 11:45am–2:30pm, 5:30–11pm; Sat 7–10:30 am, 5:30–11pm; Sun 7–10:30am
Transport: Subway: B, D, F to 42nd St–Bryant Park; 7 to Fifth Ave
Price: Average main course: $30. AmEx, DC, Disc, MC, V
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