Üsküdar

Critics' pick
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1/2
Photograph: Hannah Mattix

Uskudar

2/2
Photograph: Hannah Mattix

Uskudar

Lenox Hill
With only a few faded photographs of Istanbul scattered on the walls and a discreet display of nazar boncugu (the Turkish symbol for warding off the evil eye) it’s clear that instead of relying on the decor to convince you of its authenticity this tiny no-frills space relies on its quaffable wines and homeland comfort food. Leeks cooked with potato, onion, and carrot in olive oil works well beside a not-too-salty tarama spread. And whole grilled branzino is a flaky, moist fillet cooked to perfection. Hearty chicken Adana, tender sausages dressed in yogurt, is surprisingly light. About the only time this 20-year-institution starts to show its age is when it comes to desserts—stale baklava and baked rice pudding are disappointing follow-ups to an otherwise fine meal.
Venue name: Üsküdar
Contact:
Address: 1405 Second Ave
New York
10021
Cross street: between 73rd and 74th Sts
Opening hours: Daily noon–11pm
Transport: Subway: 6 to 77th St
Price: Average main course: $14. AmEx, DC, Disc, MC, V
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