Bar San Calisto

Bar San Calisto review Rate it

Green tourists get their coffee or beer on piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere; locals who know better go to this bar. Its harsh lighting would make Sophia Loren look wan, and the dingy space - inside and out - is no picture postcard. But it's dirt-cheap and as such it has always been the haunt of arty and fringe types (plus many questionable characters after sundown). They're here downing beers or an affogato (ice-cream swamped with liqueur), or savouring some of the best chocolate in Rome: hot and thick with fresh whipped cream in winter, and in the form of creamy gelato in warmer months.