Livia Hengel is a travel writer, photographer and culture enthusiast with a penchant for la dolce vita and a severe case of wanderlust. She is a regular contributor to Forbes and the founder of The Italy Edit, a digital travel and lifestyle magazine.

Livia Hengel

Livia Hengel

Local expert, Rome

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Articles (22)

The 15 best events in Rome for 2024 and 2025

The 15 best events in Rome for 2024 and 2025

Things happen in Rome, always have, always will. You aren’t going to pack into the Colosseum to see gladiators do battle with beasts (unless the night takes a particularly dark turn), but the best events in Rome are worth making the trip for.  Given the proximity to Vatican City, it is no surprise that many religious holidays here are marked by elaborate celebrations and big crowds, while each neighbourhood seems to have its own calendar of charming events. That’s how Rome is, there’s always something happening here. Whatever time of year you’re visiting, here are the best events in Rome.  RECOMMENDED:🏘️ Where to stay in Rome🏛️ The best attractions in Rome🍝 The best pasta in Rome🏨 The best hotels in Rome Livia Hengel is an Italian writer based in Rome. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines. 

13 unmissable attractions in Rome

13 unmissable attractions in Rome

The seat of the Roman Empire and the Papacy, Rome is one of the world’s most unique cities in the world. Thanks to its thousands of years of history, it boasts iconic landmarks like the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and the Pantheon — but it’s not all ancient wonders here. You can also find contemporary art and architecture at museums like the MAXXI or enjoy natural scenery at the Villa Borghese park or the Laghetto in EUR. And that’s without mentioning its fantastic restaurants, fabulous bars and bustling markets. You’d need a lifetime to see everything the Eternal City has to offer, but you can squeeze a lot into a long weekend, or preferably a week. Here are the most essential attractions you can’t miss. RECOMMENDED:📍 The best things to do in Rome🏘️ Where to stay in Rome🛏️ The best Airbnbs in Rome🏨 The best hotels in Rome Livia Hengel is a writer based in Rome. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines. This guide includes affiliate links, which have no influence on our editorial content. For more information, see our affiliate guidelines

A weekend in Rome: the ultimate itinerary

A weekend in Rome: the ultimate itinerary

Once you’ve been to Rome once, you’ll want to return over and over again. That’s a guarantee. Rome is the kind of city where even if your days spent there are packed full to the brim, you’ll always feel like there’s more to experience. The truth is, there is always more to see, do and eat in the Italian capital. But if you’re just here for 48 hours, there are a few things you absolutely must do. And just to make life that bit easier, we’ve designed a flawless weekend stay in the city, from ancient ruins and trattorias to cool hangouts the locals love. Here’s how to smash the perfect weekend in Rome.  RECOMMENDED:🍽️ The best restaurants in Rome📍 The best things to do in Rome🏘 The best Airbnbs in Rome🏨 Where to stay in Rome This guide was written by Livia Hengel, a writer based in Rome. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines. This guide includes affiliate links, which have no influence on our editorial content. For more information, see our affiliate guidelines. 

When is the best time to visit Rome?

When is the best time to visit Rome?

Blessed with awe-inspiring ancient history, plentiful sunshine and Mediterranean temperatures, Rome is a popular city escape in every season. During the summer months, you can relax at the best beaches near Rome before catching outdoor culture performances in ancient heritage sites in the evenings. Spring and autumn have the most comfortable temperatures for sightseeing and delectable seasonal produce, like Rome’s famous artichokes and mushrooms. And winter brings festive cheer with Christmas decorations and Christmas mass at the Vatican. After the holidays subside with La Befana on January, winter is also the best time to enjoy Romes without the crowds (and with great prices on its hotels). RECOMMENDED:🏘️ Where to stay in Rome🏛️ The best attractions in Rome🍝 The best pasta in Rome🏨 The best hotels in Rome Livia Hengel is an Italian writer based in Rome. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines. This guide includes affiliate links, which have no influence on our editorial content. For more information, see our affiliate guidelines. 

The 24 greatest things to do in Rome

The 24 greatest things to do in Rome

There is an old saying that when it comes to Rome, non basta una vita, meaning a lifetime isn’t enough. After 14 years of living in Rome and countless scoops of gelato, spritzes in Baroque piazzas and sunset strolls along ruin-dotted streets, I can vouch that every word of it is true. From the Trevi Fountain to Castel Sant’Angelo, there are countless layers of historic and modern delights to uncover in Rome: you just need to know where to look.  How long do I need in Rome? Even I know that we don’t all have a lifetime to spare, so the good news is that three days in the Eternal City is an ideal amount of time for a dolce vita escape with all the big hitters. If possible, plan to come on a Saturday, the one day a week when the private residence of Galleria Colonna opens to the public. But whenever you get to visit this city, trust us, it’s as brilliant as they say it is. Here are the best things to do in Rome.  RECOMMENDED:🏛️ Unmissable attractions in Rome🍝 The best restaurants in Rome🛍️ Where to go shopping in Rome🏘️ The best Airbnbs in Rome🏨 The best hotels in Rome This guide and its introduction were recently updated by Rome-based writer Natalie Aldern. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines. This guide includes affiliate links, which have no influence on our editorial content. For more information, see our affiliate guidelines. 

11 of the best alternative Mediterranean beach breaks for 2023

11 of the best alternative Mediterranean beach breaks for 2023

Does anything conjure up an image of beach bliss quite like the Med? Surrounded by 22 countries and bordered by three continents, the Mediterranean Sea boasts miles and miles of coastline – not to mention hundreds of islands. And while there are certain seaside spots where you’ll need to fight for space on the sand (we’re looking at you, Barceloneta), there are plenty of other secluded stretches of coastline across the Med. Our selection of alternative beach spots, chosen by Mediterranean-based travel writers, takes you beyond Europe to North Africa and the Middle East. From wild, flamingo-frequented beaches in Spain to a culture-packed port city in France, this is where to find the Mediterranean’s best alternative (and affordable) beach breaks. There’s plenty of room to lay out your towel here. Grace Beard is Time Out’s deputy travel editor, based in London. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines and check out our latest travel guides written by local experts. RECOMMENDED:🗺 Europe’s most underrated destinations🌆 The best European city breaks🚫 The travel destinations that want tourists to stay away

The 15 best hotels in Rome for an idyllic European getaway

The 15 best hotels in Rome for an idyllic European getaway

A city that has seen travelers pass through for millennia, you could say Rome has mastered its sense of hospitality over the ages. Italians are passionate people who are eager to break bread with you at the table, welcome you into their home and help you discover the wonders of their country. So it’s no surprise that the Eternal City is filled with hotels that transmit their warm spirit and elevate it with friendly service, style and classic Italian flair. If you’re looking for a place to stay, look no further. These handpicked hotels in Rome have local charm, excellent amenities and ideal locations for exploring the city. Whether you opt for a quirky boutique hotel in the heart of Monti, a historic palazzo near the Trevi Fountain or a palatial resort with views of the Vatican, this list has something for everyone. Looking for more inspiration? 🍝 Here are the best restaurants in Rome🍷 Get acquainted with Rome's best bars📸 Discover the best things to do in Rome🏠 Stay in the best Airbnbs in Rome This guide was recently updated by Rome-based writer Livia Hengel. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines. While we might not stay in every hotel featured below, we've based our list on top reviews and amenities to find you the best stays. This article includes affiliate links. These links have no influence on our editorial content. For more information, see our

The best Airbnbs in Rome for a magical getaway in the Eternal City

The best Airbnbs in Rome for a magical getaway in the Eternal City

As one of the most popular cities in the world, Rome sees its fair share of tourists, so come prepared to face crowds at sites like the Colosseum, the Vatican and the Trevi Fountain. Luckily, there are plenty of places to unwind when you need a break from the bustle — from leafy parks and the seaside to outdoor cafes and of course — your accommodations. When you opt for an Airbnb, you’re guaranteed more space than a hotel and often frills like washing machines, kitchens and sometimes even private gardens. Fantastic Airbnbs are littered throughout Rome, from the stylish historic center to farther-flung neighborhoods where the locals live. Whether you're after a room overlooking the Colosseum or that typically high-fashion Italiano boutique apartment, we’ve rounded up Rome’s best Airbnbs to suit everyone's tastes. With options ranging from cozy studios to rooftop penthouses, you'll find the perfect spot to make your Roman holiday extra memorable. RECOMMENDED:🏨 Fancy a stay at the best hotels in Rome?⏰ The best way to spend 48 hours in Rome🇮🇹 Add these to your itinerary for Rome This guide was written by Rome-based writer Livia Hengel. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines. While we might not stay in every Airbnb featured, we've based our list on top reviews, hosts and amenities to find you the best stays. This article includes affiliate links. For more

9 incredible cheap hotels in Rome, picked by a local expert

9 incredible cheap hotels in Rome, picked by a local expert

Living la dolce vita does not always come cheap: there are Vespas to rent, attractions to explore, Negronis to imbibe at the best bars in Rome and truffle-topped pasta to eat. Prioritising cheap hotels in Rome without sacrificing any iconic Italian style will free up more funds for the tasty and cultural temptations around every corner. And luckily some of the city’s best hotels are also its most budget-friendly; finding cheap acommodations does not require being stuck in some soulless suburb. From art nouveau villas turned B&Bs in chic Parioli to tech-smart rooms near the Pantheon or former palaces on the edge of Piazza Navona, here are the top ten cheap hotels in Rome. RECOMMENDED: The best Airbnbs in RomeRECOMMENDED: The best hotels in Rome This guide was recently updated by Rome-based writer Natalie Aldern. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines. While we might not stay in every hotel featured below, we've based our list on top reviews and amenities to find you the best stays. This article includes affiliate links. These links have no influence on our editorial content. For more information, see our affiliate guidelines.

9 of the most underrated Italian cities to visit

9 of the most underrated Italian cities to visit

Italy is one of the world’s most popular travel destinations for good reason. With 20 diverse regions, unparalleled cultural heritage and one of the world’s most revered traditional cuisines, there’s so much to discover each time you visit. But the country’s enduring popularity comes with a downside: cities like Rome, Venice and Florence are pretty much perpetually crowded. Luckily, Italy has loads of other amazing cities to visit – not to mention a great national train system, if you want to tick off a few in one trip. With a little planning, it’s easy to get off-the-beaten-path to enjoy a more local experience. These are Italy’s most underrated cities to put on your radar ASAP. Buon viaggio!  RECOMMENDED:The best places to visit in ItalyThe best Italian islands to visitOur favourite European city breaks This guide was written by Rome-based writer Livia Hengel. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines. This guide includes affiliate links, which have no influence on our editorial content. For more information, see our affiliate guidelines. 

The 15 best places to go shopping in Rome

The 15 best places to go shopping in Rome

Between the endless things to do and multiple bowls of pasta you’ll devour on your trip to Rome, you might as well go shopping. Luckily for you, Rome takes shopping very seriously indeed.  At first glance, you might just expect pricey designer boutiques and jewellers, but you’ll be able to source a ton of vintage and bargain finds too. And if you’re only interested in a spot of window shopping? This is the place. Rome’s best shopping streets are a beauty. Here’s where to go shopping in the Eternal City.  RECOMMENDED:🏛️ The best attractions in Rome🍝 The best restaurants in Rome🏘️ The best Airbnbs in Rome🏨 The best hotels in Rome This guide was recently updated by Natalie Aldern, a writer based in Rome. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines. 

The 12 best pizzerias in Rome

The 12 best pizzerias in Rome

You know what they say. When in Rome, you must do as the Romans do. Like, never order a cappuccino after noon, and don’t have dinner till nine. In a city as brilliant as this, you’ve got to truly immerse yourself in the culture and eat like the locals. And we know it’s going to be hard, but that’s going to involve eating lots and lots of thin-crust, delicious pizza. Tough gig, right? Well don’t worry, we’re here to help. Rome is full of pizza served in a variety of ways.  From classic, crispy Roman scrocchiarella and pizza al taglio (served by the slice) to the oval-shaped Pinsa Romana and wood-fired Neapolitan delights, there’s a pizza for all pockets and palates. Let’s get into it then, shall we? Here are the best pizzas in Rome right now.  RECOMMENDED:🍴 The best restaurants in Rome🍝 The best pasta in Rome🍦 The best gelato in Rome📍 The best things to do in Rome🏘️ Exactly where to stay in Rome This guide was recently updated by Rome-based writer Livia Hengel. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines. 

Listings and reviews (18)

Hotel De La Ville

Hotel De La Ville

5 out of 5 stars

The younger sibling of Rome’s legendary Hotel de Russie, Hotel de la Ville is another luxurious property of the Rocco Forte Collection that combines old-world glamour with contemporary flair. Nestled within an 18th-century palazzo on top of the Spanish Steps, the hotel is located in one of the city’s most covetable locations, just steps from iconic shopping streets, including Via dei Condotti and Via del Babuino, renowned for their luxury shopping outlets. Hotel de la Ville is a hotel that captures Roman romance and contemporary cool. Designed by architect Tommaso Ziffer in collaboration with Olga Polizzi, it features playful design elements that pay home to the Grand Tour era. Greek and Roman architectural details, antique furnishings, custom wallpapers and vintage memorabilia (globes, maps and other travel-related artifacts) all add to the hotel's allure. The property has 104 sumptuous rooms and suites with luxe velvet furniture, whimsical wallpaper and geometric rugs — a mix that comes together for a wonderful effect. Although the property has a quaint inner courtyard, you’ll want to opt for a street-facing street for the most mesmerizing views of Rome. Hotel de la Ville’s Irene Forte Spa, featuring Sicilian ingredients and innovative wellness treatments, has quickly become one of the most popular spas in the city. High-tech but focused on holistic health, it has a Mediterranean salt room, ice fountain, Kneipp foot baths, hydro pool and infrared relaxation loungers.    Fam

Condominio Monti

Condominio Monti

4 out of 5 stars

Located in a refurbished early 20th-century building, it combines Italian hospitality with fresh design and promises a memorable stay. Condominio Monti is set along Via dei Serpenti, one of Rome’s prettiest streets, perfectly positioning you to explore Rome while enjoying a true neighborhood experience. Monti is known for its cobblestone streets, wine bars and hip crowd, making it one of the most beloved quartiere in the city. As the name implies, Condominio captures the spirit of communal living and offers a range of uniquely designed rooms to cater to all kinds of travelers. Cozy single rooms are offered at a great price point for solo travelers, while families can opt for spacious quadruple rooms which have separate sleeping areas with a handy wardrobe divider. The Suite, which spans 70 sm, is the best "room" in the house with a small kitchen and a large private terrace with views of the Colosseum. All rooms are bright and thoughtful, with design elements to enhance your comfort like built in bookshelves that function as desks or drawer space. The aesthetic, meanwhile, is highly Instagrammable with handcrafted wallpaper, colorful furnishings and retro-chic appliances. Slippers are also provided along with complimentary in-room tea and coffee facilities.  Guests will also enjoy dining at Condominio Monti’s numerous outlets. Osteria Oliva, the hotel's ground-floor osteria, serves up Roman classics in a cozy setting with small wooden tables and a well-stocked bar. You should

Villa Spalletti Trivelli

Villa Spalletti Trivelli

5 out of 5 stars

One of the most beautiful historic residences in Rome, Villa Spalletti Trivelli is an opulent boutique hotel located on one of the fabled Seven Hills of Rome. A stone’s throw from the Quirinale, the residence of Italy’s president, the urban villa sits on a quiet street with a garden and rooftop, providing an elegant refuge from the bustle of the capital. It’s also just a short walk from the Trevi Fountain and the Monti neighborhood meaning you’re close to all the action.  Built in the early 1900s, the palazzo was the former residence of Countess Rasponi who hosted frequent visitors for cultural events. The ambiance has remain unchanged, with elegant salons and living rooms filled with bookshelves for unwinding, reading and enjoying an aperitif at any hour of the day. As soon as you step inside, you’ll be greeted by architectural details like vaulted arches, marble columns and a wrought-iron, Art Deco staircase. The walls are adorned museum-grade paintings, tapestries and antique maps from the family's own collection, creating a homey atmosphere that is luxurious but relaxed. Part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the world brand, it has 12 rooms in the main villa, offering an intimate stay in a beautiful setting. The rooms are cozy with vintage flair — they are outfitted with antique furnishings, marble bathrooms and a color palette of red, ochre and sage green walls. The hotel also has two Garden Suites within the complex, and two Apartments right nearby, offering more space for

Alcazar Live

Alcazar Live

What is it? Alcazar Live in Trastevere is one of Rome’s liveliest hubs for cultural activities and nightlife, including live music, theatre, cinema and drinks.  Is it worth it? Without a doubt, this is the best club in Rome right now. This dynamic space was formerly a movie theater and still features red velvet theater seats, along with a wide stage area to accommodate a wide range of shows each evening. Upstairs, the original area that housed the movie projector contains a trendy but low-key restaurant, so you can also stop by for food before the show. A full line-up is available on the Live Alcazar website. What is the dress code for Alcazar Live? The dress code here is smart casual, but contrary to popular belief, summery clothes like shorts and skirts are fine. Just don’t arrive straight from the beach unless you’ve got a change of clothes with you, as you won’t be allowed in with a bikini on, flip-flops, or shirtless in trunks.  This review was fact checked and updated in 2024.  📍 Discover more of the best things to do in Rome. 

Colosseum (Colosseo)

Colosseum (Colosseo)

What is it? One of the New Seven Wonders of the World, the Colosseum is a huge amphitheatre in Rome built in AD 72. Officially known as the Amphitheatrum Flavium (Flavian amphitheatre), the building didn’t become known as the the Colosseum until later – not because it was big, but because of a gold-plated colossal statue, now lost, that stood alongside. Built by Emperor Vespasian, the Colosseum is situated on the site of the newly drained lake in the grounds of Nero’s Domus Aurea.  Why is it famous? When it was built, the arena was about 500 metres (a third of a mile) in circumference and could seat 50,000-80,000 people who gathered to watch gladiatorial contests, animal hunts, and other public spectacles.  The Colosseum has four levels, including a ‘hypogeum’ beneath the arena floor, which features underground tunnels and chambers which were used to house gladiators, animals and equipment before the fights. Part of its fame is owed to the loss of its south side in 1349, when Rome was struck by an earthquake. Lots of the stone that fell was then used to build other monuments and churches in the city.  Is it worth going inside the Colosseum? Yes! The Colosseum is one of the most recognisable monuments in the world, and the outside is beautiful, but the inside is really something to behold. You’ll definitely want to take a guided tour to understand its historical significance better.  Is entry free? If you’re pressed for cash (and time), you can admire its grandeur from the ou

The Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel

The Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel

What is it? One of the world's largest museums, which is home to the celebrated Sistine Chapel, traces its origins to the private summer residence of Pope Julius II in 1503. Through the years, it has developed into an extensive compilation that mirrors the diverse preferences and pursuits of several influential figures. Why is it famous? Constructed between 1473 to 1484, the Sistine Chapel is best known for its monumental frescoes painted by Michelangelo. Serving as the venue for papal conclave for hundreds of years, the chapel was restored in the 1980s and '90s to unveil vivid blue shades across its 930-square-meter ceiling and the wall of the Last Judgment. The museum not only features seminal works by Michelangelo and Raphael but also includes Etruscan relics, creations by Matisse, a lunar rock gifted by Nixon, and a 120-meter corridor filled with remarkably precise maps from the 16th century. Is it worth going into the Vatican Museum? Many travellers come to Rome specifically to visit the Sistine Chapel, but if you’re into art and history, you’ll certainly want to visit the entire Vatican Museum complex. A quick walkthrough will take around 2-3 hours but there are countless works of art, so you can easily stay longer. Eat a snack before your visit and come prepared to be overwhelmed by beauty and crowds. Put it this way: we do not recommend visiting the Vatican and the Colosseum on the same day. How much do tickets cost? Tickets cost upwards of €17, and there are concess

Pantheon

Pantheon

What is the Pantheon and why is it famous? The Pantheon, built by Hadrian in AD 119-128, stands as Rome’s best-preserved ancient building. Originally a temple, it replaced an earlier structure built by Marcus Agrippa, confusing historians for centuries. Designed following the rules of Roman architect Vitruvius, its dimensions impress, with the dome's diameter equaling the building's height, accommodating a perfect sphere. The name is derived from the Greek word πάνθεον, which means ‘temple of all gods’.  Who is buried in the Pantheon? The building is still officially a church, and contains the tombs of eminent Italians, including the artist Raphael and united Italy’s first king, Vittorio Emanuele II. At its center lies the oculus, a 9-meter (30-foot) circular aperture serving as the sole source of light, symbolically connecting the temple to the heavens.  Is it worth visiting? Certainly, although you’ll now have to queue to go inside. The pantheon is impressive to see inside-and-out, and a visit is quick. You won’t need more than 15 minutes inside. Is entrance to the Pantheon free? Since July 2023, the Pantheon is no longer free to enter. Tickets are €5 for adults, €2 for 18-25 year olds, and free for visitors under age 18. Tickets, guided tours and fast-track entry can be found on GetYourGuide, and tickets can also be purchased on the Pantheon website bu typing ‘Pantheon’ and filtering by region ‘Lazio’. You’ll be asked to create an account to purchase tickets and you can on

Seu Pizza Illuminati

Seu Pizza Illuminati

What’s the vibe?  This isn’t your typical old-school pizzeria. With a big neon sign reading ‘In Pizza We Trust’, this spot on the edge of Trastevere is fresh and local. At Seu Pizza Illuminati, master pizzaiolo Pier Daniele Seu with his wife and partner Valeria Zuppardo have curated a vast menu of gourmet, Neapolitan-style pizzas with very creative flavour combos. Expect meaty, fishy, vegetarian, vegan; the works.  What are the prices like? Medium-high but reasonable for the quality. A classic pizza margherita comes in at €10, more creative pizzas are €15-18.  What should I order? The menu changes according to the season. Interesting combinations include roasted pumpkin, provola cheese, crispy guanciale and amaretto crumble, or broccoli rabe with green olive cream, burnt lemon gel, toasted almonds and provolone. Enjoy a top-notch wine and champagne list to complement the ‘luxury culinary experience’.  What’s worth visiting nearby? The bustling streets of Trastevere are right nearby or cross over into Testaccio for a more local flair. Villa Sciarra park is a favorite hideaway and dog park for locals and the 1930s cinema Nuovo Sacher streams arthouse movies. 📍 Check out more of the best things to do in Rome. 

Sant'Isidoro Pizza e Bolle

Sant'Isidoro Pizza e Bolle

What’s the vibe?  An upscale pizzeria that prides itself on quality ingredients and an extensive wine list, this is a great place for a relaxed date night (with wine). Sant’Isidoro has cracked the code to turning pizza into a luxurious experience by pairing palate-cleansing sparkling wines with perfectly baked pies. You’ll find French Champagnes, Italian Franciacorta, Trento DOC and other curated wines on the menu. You can also order cocktails, still wines and a few Italian craft beers. What are the prices like? Prices are on the medium-high end but fair considering the emphasis on champagnes and high-end labels. Wines by the glass are €7-10 and bottles start at €30. What should I order? Start with a frittatina di pasta, a Neapolitan classic made of deep-fried bucatini noodles with béchamel, ham and peas. Then pick your pie – from classics to the more eccentric, featuring shrimp, artichoke cream and sweet and sour onions.  What’s worth visiting nearby? Located on the northern end of Prati, Sant’Isidoro is in an elegant residential neighborhood with lawyer studios and historic cafes. The pizzeria is also a short bus or taxi ride from the Vatican or cross the river to explore Zaha Hadid's MAXXI museum dedicated to contemporary art and architecture.  📍 Check out more of the best things to do in Rome

Alle Carrette

Alle Carrette

What’s the vibe?  This restaurant resembles a Czech beer den more than a Roman pizzeria, but its cuisine is decidedly Italian. The space is large and bustling with brick ceilings and a big woodfire pizza oven. The service is fast and efficient, so even if there’s a wait, you’ll be seated relatively quickly. There’s also a small outdoor space in the summer months. What are the prices like? One of the best value meals in Rome, Alle Carette is unfussy and informal. Expect to pay around €10-20 per head. What should I order? The pizza here is classic Roman: thin and crispy with charred edges and only a handful of ingredients. It’s the kind of place to order pizza with prosciutto or spicy salami, though the menu has dozens of options with or without tomato sauce. Order a few types of fried foods to start and a pitcher of house wine. The fried carciofini (baby artichokes) are unbeatable.  What’s worth visiting nearby? The whole Monti neighborhood is extremely charming and filled with quaint cafes, independent boutiques and wine bars. Enjoy a drink on the steps of the fountain in La Piazzetta (Piazza della Madonna dei Monti). It's just a short walk to the Colosseum and ancient archeological sites like Emperor Nero's Domus Aurea, Trajan's Market and the Imperial Forum. Monte Oppio park is also nearby.  📍 Check out more of the best things to do in Rome

Trattoria Pennestri

Trattoria Pennestri

What’s the vibe?   The vibe here is cosy, friendly and delicious. It’s a local favorite in the Ostiense neighbourhood (but tourists have caught onto the hype, so it’s always busy). Be sure to book 1-2 weeks ahead to reserve a table. The focus here is on quality ingredients and honest food – with a hint of innovation and a lot of heart. The wine selection is excellent and the service is warm. All in all, you’ll be in for an unforgettable meal. What are the prices like? Prices are in the medium range for Rome: pastas are €13-15, seconds are €18-22, wines start at €6.5 by the glass. What should I order? The menu changes seasonally and is carefully curated with creative comfort food. Chewy pici with sauteed chicory and breadcrumbs is a classic, and you can’t miss the chocolate mousse, sandwiched between two thin disks of Sardinian flatbread topped and with flaky sea salt and a drizzle of olive oil. You might also come across duck breast with lemon and pumpkin compote or cannelloni stuffed with mushrooms, sage and pecorino. What’s worth visiting nearby? Centrale Montemartini, a stirring museum that juxtaposes classical sculptures with industrial machinery, is close to the restaurant. You can also visit the serene Protestant Cemetery which has famous graves, including those of the English Poets John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley. Further south, the Garbatella neighborhood is a charming, residential area to walk around with unique 1920s architecture. 📍 Check out more of the best

Da Enzo al 29

Da Enzo al 29

What’s the vibe?  Don’t expect a long, leisurely experience at this diminutive family-run trattoria. Space is limited, the noise level is high and the service is fast and furious, but for typical cucina romana, it is a reliable and atmospheric option. Prices are a little above average but the quality of ingredients is assured and there is a nice selection of lesser-known Lazio wines. The restaurant doesn’t take reservations so be sure to arrive 30-60 minutes before opening at lunch and dinner, otherwise be prepared to join a very long queue (but they’ll serve you a drink while you wait).  What are the prices like? Prices have gone up since the pandemic and are high for Italian standards (but still low compared to Venice, Florence, and other big tourist cities around the world). Pastas come in at around €12-15.  What should I order? Everything here is excellent so you can’t go wrong with any of the Roman classics like carbonara and amatriciana pastas, meatballs with tomato sauce and oxtail stew. Don’t miss the burrata antipasto served with cherry tomatoes, and be sure to order fried artichokes as a side. The tiramisù is also excellent. What’s worth visiting nearby? Located in the quaint alleyways of Trastevere, there’s a lot to see around the trattoria. Wander into the pretty gated courtyard of the 9th century Basilica di Santa Cecilia — which is much quieter than the nearby pre-medieval Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere across the tram line. You can cross over a small foo