In the basement of an enoteca on Testaccio's market square, this 'Oasis of Beer' has over 500 brews on offer. It's one of the few places in Rome where you can track down the products of Italian microbreweries such as the award-winning Menabrea; the selection of wines by the bottle is almost as impressive. The food ranges from full-scale meals with a Germanic/Eastern European slant (goulash, wurstel, krauti) to snacks (crostini, bruschette). The outside tables operate year round, weather permitting. Booking is a good idea.