A January 2007 refit has given the Antico Arco a smart new interior, minimalist but warm, and the cuisine has perked up, too, after a period of stasis. On a busy corner behind Porta San Pancrazio, this Gianicolo restaurant - helmed by chef Patrizia Mattei - was one of the first of the new wave ofcreative Roman diners in the 1990s, and unlike some of the others, it can still be highly recommended. Tables are spread over two upstairs and two downstairs rooms, and there's now also a wine-bar lobby where you can imbibe while waiting to be seated. The menu is strong on all fronts, from the antipasti, which include an outstanding Tropea onion and taleggio cheese flan, to the primi, where Antico Arco classics like the risotto with castelmagno cheese are flanked by new entries such as tonnarelli with bottarga (grey mullet roe), artichokes and coriander. The excellent secondi cover the board from meat to fish to game, and the choreographic desserts are no let-down. The wine list is extensive, and sensibly priced. It's still hugely popular, so book at least a couple of days in advance.