The charming 1920s workers' suburb of Garbatella has started to take some of the spillover from the new nightlife axis along via Ostiense, and clubs and eateries are springing up like daisies. Situated right opposite the revamped Palladium theatre, this was one of the first of Garbatella's new restaurants, and it's still one of the best. The vibe and decor are old-style French bistro, but the food is resolutely Italian. The chef's creativity is based on combinations of ingredients and flavours that go back centuries: passatina di ceci (chickpea purée) with lightly fried calamari, or straccetti di maiale (sautéed pork strips) aromatised with thyme and lemon and coated with toasted almonds, plus a number of vegetarian dishes. Desserts (with an appropriate glass of sweet wine) are delicious, the wine list small but good. In summer you can eat outside under the arcade and watch the world go by.