Chef Robert Belcham and sommelier Tom Doughty left C Restaurant to crank up the competition on West 4th. The regional, seasonal menu always reads great - sometimes better than it eats. Safe choices include trout when available and a stonking ribeye steak fried in butter (you can jog around the Seawall later). Lunch is a good deal and if you really want to see attention to detail, try a beautifully presented cheese plate. The room proper is a little anemic; sit at the kitchen bar and enjoy the show (that way, you can also keep an eye on which dishes are looking good).