Sitting outside in the plane-tree shade, the Kentish Hotel’s regular crew – silver-fox media types and real-estate suits – dip buttery sourdough into bowls of tomato broth. This sprightly sauce is all that remains after they’ve polished off a dozen big black mussels – firm and juicy, rather than bloated and fatty – and scooped up the attendant chunks of chorizo. Garnished with basil and cress, even the entrée size is an entirely satisfying lunch or dinner.