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I hiked Australia’s world-famous Larapinta Trail – here are 5 things that surprised me

From rare greenery to supported tours, here are five more reasons to do the iconic multi-day desert trek right now

Melissa Woodley
Written by
Melissa Woodley
Travel & News Editor, Time Out Australia
Larapinta Trail
Photograph: Melissa Woodley
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Hiking in the rugged heart of Australia isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. Between the relentless desert sun and the never-ending rocky undulations, you truly have to earn every single view. Yet there’s a reason the Larapinta Trail is one of Australia’s most popular multi-day walks.

Every year, thousands of hikers travel to the Red Centre to complete or do a section of this challenging 230-kilometre trek, stretching from Alice Springs Telegraph Station to Mount Sonder.

I recently tackled 69.5 kilometres of the trail’s highlights on the six-day Classic Larapinta Trek in Comfort – one of the 15 Great Walks of Australia. It was a challenge, both physically and mentally, but the reward was beyond measure. Whether you’re an avid hiker or eager to do your first multi-day hike, here’s what you should know before you go.

Larapinta Trail
Photograph: Melissa Woodley

You don’t need to be a hardcore hiker

While many seasoned explorers choose to do the full 230-kilometre trail from start to end, the beauty of the Larapinta is its accessibility. Beginners can dip into any of its 12 sections and still experience that sense of achievement, with the most stunning desert landscapes as your reward. I highly recommend the Classic Larapinta Trek in Comfort guided experience, where you’re in the safe hands of passionate guides who share insights on the ancient landscapes and Indigenous history of the region. The itinerary alternates long stretches of up to 16.5 kilometres with shorter days – and because you only carry a daypack, you can focus on the views rather than the weight on your shoulders. Best of all, each night you can rest your legs at eco-campsites, featuring hot bucket showers, a gourmet dinner and a comfortable safari-style tent.

Ormiston Pound
Photograph: Melissa WoodleyOrmiston Pound

The photos don’t do it justice

The Red Centre is truly one of the most spectacular places on Earth. No matter how many megapixels your camera has, you can’t truly capture the sheer scale of the 350-million-year-old ridges until you see them with your own eyes. There’s a sacred beauty here too, that you don’t just see, but feel deep in your bones.

Mount Sonder
Photograph: Melissa WoodleyMount Sonder

The temperature changes dramatically

Due to the desert’s intense heat, the Larapinta Trail is recommended for hiking only between April and September. Even in mid-autumn, I experienced daytime temperatures of 29 degrees – but the midday sun reflecting off red rock walls can make it feel five to ten degrees hotter. As soon as the sun dips, the temperature can plummet to below zero, so carrying gear for both summer and winter is essential. My top tip: bring a three-season sleeping bag.

Larapinta Trail
Photograph: Melissa Woodley

The landscapes are surprisingly green

I came expecting the Red Centre to be rust-red, but instead found a desert landscape blanketed in lush greenery. This follows the Northern Territory’s third-wettest February on record, which brought with it colourful wildflowers and a flurry of native birds, including crested pigeons, whistling kites and budgerigars. It’s a truly magical time to be in the “Green Centre”.

Ormiston Gorge
Photograph: Melissa WoodleyOrmiston Gorge

You’ll have the chance to swim

I didn’t expect to be packing swimmers for my desert pilgrimage, but was delighted to find a handful of permanent waterholes along the Larapinta Trail. Fair warning though – since the water is often shaded by 100-metre-high cliffs, it can be incredibly cold year-round. However, after a long day in the sun, it was just what I needed. My favourite places to cool off include Ormiston Gorge (Kwartatuma/near sections nine/ten), Glen Helen Gorge (a short detour from the trail of section ten) and Ellery Creek Big Hole (Udepata (near sections six/seven).

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