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When you think of iconic Aussie foods, you probably picture meat pies, pavlova, lamingtons and Vegemite. But there’s one icon missing from the list that many outside South Australia might never have heard of: the pie floater – a meat pie submerged in a bowl of mushy pea soup, topped with tomato sauce and vinegar.
Can a dish that isn’t known nationwide really be considered an ‘icon’? Absolutely. The pie floater is so iconic that the National Trust of Australia officially recognised it as a South Australian Heritage Icon back in 2003. I’m ashamed to admit I went more than 25 years without ever trying one, so on a recent trip to Adelaide, I finally decided to see if it lived up to the hype.
By looks alone, the pie floater isn’t exactly appealing. The traditional dish consists of a meat pie, typically beef, served upside down in a bowl of thick, mushy green pea soup, finished with tomato sauce and sometimes a splash of vinegar. But don’t judge this book by its cover…
Pie floaters have been a late-night staple for South Australian revellers since the late 19th century. Originally, they were served from horse- and hand-drawn pie carts on the streets of Adelaide, most famously Balfour's Pie Cart outside the Railway Station on North Terrace.
The dish is said to have been invented in Port Pirie by a baker called Ern ‘Shorty’ Bradley, who likely drew inspiration from England’s pie and pea soup suppers.
While Adelaide’s last surviving regular pie cart closed in 2010, the floater’s legacy lives on at a handful of bakeries and pubs across the city. One such place is Bakery on O’Connell, a 24/7 bakery in North Adelaide that’s been family-owned and operated for more than 20 years.
I popped by the bakery on a Sunday morning and was delighted to find it buzzing with a constant flow of locals coming and going. A blackboard screen boasted more than ten different pies and pasties, any of which could be chosen as the base for your floater.
I opted for a classic mince gravy pie, served toasty warm atop a bed of mushy peas with a generous drizzle of tomato sauce and a splash of vinegar. It was the epitome of pure comfort in a bowl.
Since I ordered my pie floater ‘fresh’, the thick pastry shell was still crisp, not yet soggy from the soup below. My first bite was a pleasant surprise – a satisfying mix of crunch and creaminess. The umami-rich filling was brightened by subtle pops of sweetness from the peas and tomato sauce, with a tangy hit of vinegar (perhaps a tad too much for my liking).
I didn’t think I’d be able to finish the generous serving of mushy peas, but once I started, I couldn’t stop. It was utterly addictive.
I’d definitely recommend trying a pie floater on your next trip to Adelaide. Whether for breakfast, lunch or dinner, it always hits the spot. You can find them at Bakery on O’Connell in North Adelaide, along with Cafè De Vili’s in Mile End and Blair Athol, and Enjoy Café Bakery in Norwood. You might also stumble upon them on menus at various pubs.