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[title]While Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka are popular with Aussie tourists touching down in the Land of the Rising Sun for good reason, some of Japan’s best experiences happen when you veer off the beaten path. Whether you’re slowly ticking off every region or heading back for round two, a short detour can lead you to feudal era streetscapes, samurai residences and centuries-old castle ruins. Luckily, we know just where to find them.
Two of Japan’s best-preserved samurai era towns, Tsuwano and Hagi, are just a short rail ride from the major sights. Located in the Chugoku region, which spans five prefectures with Hiroshima as the central hub, surrounded by Okayama, Tottori, Shimane and Yamaguchi, you’ll find Tsuwano in Shimane Prefecture and Hagi in Yamaguchi Prefecture.
Open year-round, these traditional towns are especially charming in summer, when you can slow down and see Japan at its most elegant.
Ancient architecture, shrines and equestrian festivals in Tsuwano
Tucked within the rolling hills of Shimane Prefecture, Tsuwano has earned the nickname “Little Kyoto of San’in” thanks to its beautifully preserved Edo period streetscape, complete with white-walled samurai residences and traditional merchant houses. Stroll down Tonomachi Street and you’ll find sake breweries and old-school sweet shops behind charming storefronts that feel like an era long past. The town’s famous stone gutters and canals, filled with brightly coloured koi fish, are sure to be a drawcard but the ruins of Tsuwano Castle perched above town make the detour well worth it.
While you’re here, stop by the Mori Ogai Memorial Museum, commemorating one of Japan’s most celebrated literary figures, Mori Ogai, and visit Taikodani Inari Shrine, considered one of the country’s five greatest Inari shrines. If you happen to pass through in April, don’t miss the annual Tsuwano Yabusame Festival, where skilled riders perform traditional Japanese horseback archery in a spectacular display.
Heritage-listed sites, samurai history and beaches in Hagi
With the Sea of Japan on one side and mountains surrounding the rest of this castle town, Hagi, located in Yamaguchi Prefecture, is one of the country’s best-preserved traditional destinations. Rich in history, the town also played an important role in shaping modern Japan – in fact, one former student of Hagi’s Shokasonjuku Academy went on to become the nation’s first prime minister.
Home to five UNESCO-listed Industrial Heritage sites, each built by local samurai clans, most people know Hagi best for being the birthplace of Hagi ware pottery. Visitors can try their hand at the style in workshops led by local artisans, or meet potters and visit their studios to learn all about the ancient tradition and the significance it still holds today.
The Horiuchi samurai district is free to wander and remains relatively unchanged, providing the perfect map of the Edo period. In summer, locals flock to nearby Kikugahama Beach for a swim, while the ruins of Hagi Castle in Shizuki Park and the former residence of the Mori clan can be found within walking distance. On the opposite end of the beach, the Hamasaki district offers another side of the town through its preserved merchant residences.
With so much sightseeing to do, don’t forget about the food. Hagi is famous for its fish and a visit to the country town isn’t complete without trying Hagi gozen, a set meal of local dishes presented in Hagi ware pottery bowls.