Coure

We leave Coure happy. The curry and olive breadsticks we get to snack on serve as a hint of the bread that's to come, which they make themselves, by the way, and we finish them off in a tick with the salt and olive oil they come with. After a starter of marinated mackerel with apple and celery comes a killer first course: razor clams, 'ajoblanco' (cold garlic and almond soup), soft almonds and figs. I recognize the formula, and it makes me a bit sceptical, but the dish turns out to be a surprising and refreshing play on textures and flavours. And on top of that, it tastes great.

The cod glazed with cherries, polenta, coffee and capers results in a risky and unrestrained combination of flavour, but the preparation is simply perfect. The veal cheek with mushroom risotto is a fiery castle of tastes that will leave you licking your chops. And for dessert the cream of eucalyptus with strawberries and hibiscus flowers is unparalleled.

After all of that, we stayed, planning to taste other options, like the oyster and pig’s trotters ravioli with polenta and fresh herbs or the vegetable stew with an infusion of ham, parmesan and bean sprouts. We'll have to go back for the tasting menu.

Other tantalising items include the grilled squid, ham with carmelised onions, the cod steak with cod tripe and barley, and the twice-cooked squab with salsify, a particularly tasty root vegetable that few chefs are challenging themselves to use. Don't pass on the excellent bread, and there's also a succinct cheese plate and homemade desserts.
 
Although it's not a space that facilitates climate control, the use of light colours to get that feeling is a rather important detail, as is the privacy you get while dining, thanks to the generous spacing between tables.
 
An excellent wine list that varies according to the sommelier's taste, good music, and excellent lighting and service help make this a fantastic setting for a night out in one of the best restaurants in town.