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Antique tiles, marble tables and a filthy ceiling - Rodoreda couldn’t have described it any better. This is a bar for locals, wedding parties, friends and even for those who still go down to central Barcelona. Located next to Sarrià’s church, in a part of the city that sometimes still resembles a sepia postcard, the walls tell their secrets to the tables indoors, beneath a muted tea-and-cakes lamplight. The surreal aquarium on the wall is fascinating, with its zebra fish and sea bass swimming around together.