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[title]Home of Wordsworth, the Lake District, Beatrix Potter and a rather moreish variety of sausage, Cumbria regularly attracts visitors in their droves. But there’s another reason why this county is fast becoming a tourist destination in its own right – its Michelin-star food.
The county now boasts an impressive 13 stars in total, awarded to 11 restaurants. Cartmel’s L’Enclume was the first to earn a star back in 2005, achieving its second in 2013 and its third in 2022 – a much-coveted accolade that’s held by just eight restaurants in the UK.
Since 2005, Cumbria’s star-studded restaurant scene has expanded significantly, and three further stars were awarded to Pentonbridge Inn, The Samling and Heft in the 2023 Michelin update.
To put this into perspective, Cumbria has more stars than any other county outside of London. Next in line is Berkshire, which boasts eight stars, awarded to places such as Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck and The Hind’s Head.
So why are there so many stars in Cumbria? ‘The county has always had a reputation for great cuisine. Miller Howe and Sharrow Bay set the standard back in the 1960s,’ an anonymous Michelin chief inspector tells us. ‘A lot of chefs passed through their kitchens and fell in love with this beautiful county. They’ve since gone on to open their own restaurants.’
Culinary heritage aside, the inspector celebrates the diversity of places serving up Michelin-quality food – it’s not just about starched tablecloths these days as even pubs are rightfully gaining stars. ‘From country pubs like the Dog and Gun Inn to more sophisticated restaurants like The Samling, SOURCE at Gilpin Hotel and of course L’Enclume, Cumbria is certainly a beacon for foodies from all over the world.’
Cumbrian ingredients inspire chefs, and the chefs inspire the producers too
They also cite Cumbria’s local produce as a key reason why this county is gaining so many stars. ‘Undoubtedly, it’s the county’s wealth of natural ingredients, like Herdwick lamb or Morecambe Bay shrimps, that helps to inspire chefs to cook wonderful food here.’
Simon Rogan, chef-owner of three-starred L’Enclume agrees. ‘Chefs have always been interested in the Lake District. The incredible produce that’s available on our doorstep is directly reflected in the quality of restaurants in the area,’ he says. ‘I have no doubt the amazing Lake District larder plays a part in the number of Michelin stars being awarded. Cumbrian ingredients inspire chefs, and the chefs inspire the producers too.’
For Rogan, such producers include Cartmel Valley Game, Unsworth’s Yard brewery and The Lakes Distillery, as well as the ingredients grown on L’Enclume’s very own farm – ‘Our Farm’ – in Cartmel, overseen by head farmer John Rowland.
Paul Leonard, head chef at one-Michelin-starred The Forest Side in Grasmere, also thinks Cumbria’s suppliers are second to none. ‘I honestly believe we have the best produce and suppliers in the world,’ he says. ‘We love the guys from Eden Yard Rapeseed Oil. Their oil adds so much to our cooking, and the fact it’s just made down the road makes it extra special. Lakeland Dexter produces some phenomenal beef for us, and Cartmel Valley Game are brilliant, too.’
Simon Rogan also attributes the flurry of stars to the Cumbrian landscape, and the quality of life that this part of the world offers. ‘Living here brings a different quality of life that many chefs are seeking after years spent working in the bigger cities,’ he says. ‘I find that a lot of people, chefs and front of house staff feel the happiest they’ve ever been after moving here, and this has an impact on their work,’ he adds.
For Chris Archer, head chef at Pentonbridge Inn, which gained its first Michelin star this year, the importance of a happy and secure team is paramount. ‘I believe what clinched the star for us this year is we came out of the pandemic with a full team intact, and we’ve really grown stronger and more consistent,’ he says.
Living here brings a different quality of life that many chefs are seeking after years in the bigger cities
Cumbria’s inspiring culture and heritage also influences what goes onto the menu at these top establishments. ‘Every dish at L’Enclume encapsulates the Lake District in one way or another,’ explains Rogan. ‘But two dishes that stand out most for me are our winter kale leaves in duck fat, black garlic, duck heart and broth infused with summer savory, and the Raw Cartmel Valley roe deer in coal oil, sunflower seed and preserved cucumber.’ You’ll also find dishes such as Berkswell pudding, seaweed custard and Tunworth cheese ice cream on the menu.
For Pentonbridge Inn’s Archer, being close to the Scottish border shapes his cooking too. ‘It’s influenced me to develop recipes traditional to Scotland. We now have homemade haggis on the menu that I think any Scot would be happy with,’ he says.
So who’s next in line for a Michelin star? Simon Rogan tips Farlam Hall’s chef patron Hrishikesh Desai. ‘Sharrow Bay is reopening so it will be great to see that, plus I’d love to see The Drunken Duck Inn, which does fantastic vegan cookery in Ambleside, get one too,’ he adds.
Archer also tips Hrishikesh Desai, while The Forest Side’s Paul Leonard’s sights are firmly on Ambleside’s Lake Road Kitchen. ‘I really hope James Cross gets a star in the future – his food is phenomenal.’
Given the county’s formidable landscape, produce and calibre of culinary talent, it’s clear Cumbria’s status as a foodie capital is here to stay. ‘The more people open great restaurants here, the more people want to open here and it has a snowball effect. I can’t see it slowing down any time soon,’ says Rogan.