Rail-bridge engineering works above Borough Market forced the closure of this pub for three years; it’s been revamped and reopened in December 2012 with a whole new look. Walls inside are clad ceiling to skirting in reclaimed wood, apart from the bits that consist of unplastered lathe; black and white pictures of the market are dotted around. It’s a pleasant place to sit, although no doubt is heaving on market days.
Here, food service is a ‘concept’. Pick up a card from the bar, tick off your choice of main, side and sauce (spit-roast chicken, ‘allotment’ salad, maple mustard, say, or ‘hay box’ ham), and you’re given a buzzer to take back to your table. When it does its thing, go out and collect your order from the sawn-in-half camper van in the yard outside. Condiments and cutlery come in a hamper.
This being a Young’s pub, the beer offer is limited by the brewery tie – ignore the underwhelming choice of bottles and go for something by Meantime or Camden Town. Wines are decent, though, and there are a few London gins.
The new Wheatsheaf is a good bet for a pint and a breather if you’re trawling the market – but there are many better places to eat right on its doorstep.
Confusingly, there’s another Wheatsheaf pub round the corner in Southwark Street.