The Connaught has always had the most country house-like feeling of London’s great hotels, and the effect reaches perfection in the Coburg. It seems effortlessly beautiful, from the deep patterned carpet to the moulded ceiling; the wing chairs, a long-time fixture, can induce torpor even if you’re drinking a double espresso. As you would expect, luxuries abound on the drinks list and prices are high – though for cocktails, not as high as at the Artesian. Great champagnes and cognacs feature prominently. The cocktail list focuses on classics, which it introduces with a brief history. Execution is flawless; two manhattans, one a ‘perfect’ version and one sweet, were the best we’ve ever had in London. Bowls of crisps and olives, both outstanding in quality, are replaced when empty. One quibble: the mediocre cocktail-lounge music, unduly prominent on a quiet Monday night, didn’t suit the character of the bar. Apart from that, we have nothing but praise.