Granary Square has made itself a magnet for independent restaurants, and Grain Store is one of the best. Both bar and restaurant have a bold, everything-exposed aesthetic – no 1920s retro here, thanks very much. And the drinks too refuse to wallow in speakeasy fantasy: Tony Conigliaro, the mix-master behind 69 Colebrooke Row among others, gets up to his usual inventive tricks here.
Try a bellini made not with peach purée but with celeriac purée; or his ‘Greco-Roman wines’, infused with the likes of smoked paprika cordial; or his butter and hay champagne. And you can order chef Bruno Loubet’s acclaimed and predominantly veggie food while you’re drinking here. Between the drinks and the view, this is one of the most exciting developments in King’s Cross since Eurostar.