Gentrification has sunk its claws into this once-scruffy boozer, for years one of the holdouts along the Portobello Road.
Fronted by a couple of pavement tables but no real sign, Portobello Star ‘take two’ is a long, thin room; the only relief from the plain walls is provided by the sturdy bar along one side and a lovely radio-themed mural. It’s a handsome space, more appealing than it seems at first glance, but the real draws are the likeable bartenders’ powerful, convincing renditions of cocktails both traditional (a richly flavourful mint julep with Woodford Reserve, a margarita modified by agave) and modern (Dick Bradsell’s Bramble).
You may have to shout to make yourself heard when the DJs crank it up a little – the music policy bounces from generic indie to more danceable tunes – but the lively crowd of Notting Hillbillies don’t mind a bit.
