You’ll need to make a reservation, promise a £10 minimum spend, head through airport-style security gates (‘no coins, keys or mobiles’), take the escalator and then find the lift dedicated to level 42 before you get anywhere near slaking your thirst. But the views make it worth the effort.
By day, they’re amazing, even discombobulating – the sort of clichéd bird’s-eye views not even aeroplane windows can deliver. From a small circle of bar space with a walk-round mirror at its core, a 360-degree panorama unfurls for mile after mile.
As you gawp from a sci-fi retro chair in Teletubby colours (purple predominates), Champagne is surely the way to go, from entry-level Pannier Brut (£58.50) to a magnum of Krug Clos du Mesnil (£820). House wine is a shade over £9, but then, house wine you can drink in the real world.