Bars & Pubs

It's hard not to like the current incarnation of this landmark flatiron corner pub, with its inspired chaos of retro-eccentric decor and warm, inclusive atmosphere. It seems to have escaped the attentions of the necking-it after-work masses: we can't help wondering if this is something to do with the absence of wall-to-wall lager pumps. Instead, there are four hand pumps offering the likes of Black Sheep and Old Rosie scrumpy, an esoteric bottled collection including Weston's organic cider and a fine collection of sprits (though no cocktail list). The bar itself celebrates the senses rather than sousing them: it's made up of colourful art deco tiles; there's a distinct decorative playfulness throughout, most obvious in stagey lighting, a multiplicity of wallpapers and, upstairs (a lovely room with its own bar), a wall of teacups and saucers. A great example of how a historic pub can be quite lit up with new life.

Time Out Bars, Pubs & Clubs Guide 2008/9