Draft House

One of a three-strong chain, this buzzing boozer on a modest corner plot throbs with a good-time vibe. The dedicated dining area at the back fills up steadily over an evening, seemingly as carousers from the front bar decide that solid sustenance may be necessary given their advancing state of marination.

True to its name, the Draft House puts beer centre stage, taking provenance, cellaring and pouring seriously. The brews are indeed impressive, and the option of one-third pint measures reinforces the spirit of discovery. If only the same care were taken with the food. Staples include haddock and chips, salmon and crab cakes, and an 8oz burger (the menu recommends beer matches). Yet in the instances where ambition crept in, we found the results disappointing.

A starter of squid, chorizo and caper berries was eye-wateringly hot, and a little sweet, while ham hock and cheddar croquettes came with an unpleasant glutinous mustard-based dip. Both dishes were served at nuclear temperatures. Food felt perfunctory, service was misjudged, and at times the commercialism was transparent: a £16.50 ribeye was served with only a garnish - a portion of chips or fries cost extra. Ouch!