Clarence

The Capital Pub Co have done a spiffing job fixing up ailing pubs, many in up-and-coming corners of south London, and turning them into destinations for the new gentry of their neighbourhoods. The five-year-old Clarence was already on their impressive roll-call (currently 30 or so), but has just reopened after a major makeover.

The new Clarence is now like a set from one of those 'cash-in quick by tarting up your home' TV shows, with bright colours, more light, better loos, table lamps shaped like ceramic dogs (really), and a huge gas-fired pizza oven.

The pizzas are thin, crisp and come with an interesting choice of toppings, and are arguably better than those at Ciullo's, Balham's more established pizzeria-trattoria just up the road. Our chorizo and salami had generous toppings, though they had not melded into the base as they ideally should. From noon-4pm Monday-Friday, all food is 25 per cent off the menu price.

Yet The Clarence is still, at heart, a bar. The beers include their brews such as the light-bodied Bonobo ale (brewed at sister pub The Florence in Herne Hill:?£3.40 a pint and 4.5 per cent abv), the golden ale called Weasel (4.5 per cent), and a wheat beer called Beaver (4.8 per cent abv). Guest ales rotate between Adnams and Sharp's. The wine selection's broad enough for most tastes.

On our visits, the contrast between weekday lunchtimes (near-empty), and evenings (rammed) has been striking. The typical Clarencegoer appears to be youngish, groovyish and more up-for-it than the regulars of the nearby Devonshire or Bedford, while not being quite as self-regarding as a Balham Bowls Club habitué. Real-ale drinkers will be among its fans, provided their discussions of American hops and sastuma notes can be heard over the chatter of noisy imbibers.