28°-50° Wine Workshop & Kitchen

Time Out says

Wed Oct 17 2012

This second branch of the ‘wine workshop & kitchen’ opened a couple of years after the Fetter Lane original, just as we went to press, and was gently evolving as it learned about its new constituency. The two locations look very different – Fetter Lane is a basement decorated in a simple, lightly rustic style, with no natural light, but a warm atmosphere. Marylebone Lane occupies a flatiron corner site with an expanse of windows and spare, striking modern decor: a central metal bar bristling with glassware and surrounded by powder-blue chairs; unvarnished tables, flower arrangements, industrial lights and duct pipes.

Only the wine lists and menu are similar. Wine lists in the plural: one offers a frequently changing, interesting selection of around 30 relatively young wines by the glass, carafe and bottle, starting with a flight or other themed grouping; the other, more serious bottles from collectors for whom 28°-50° acts as an agent – a clever system. Food is simple and appetising, with grills, cheese and meat plates common to both and a slant to the French evident at the slightly dearer Fetter Lane and to salads and luxury (foie gras, oysters) at Marylebone.