Not much changes at this long-running restaurant overlooking Islington Green. The two-floor premises are bright and clean, with spring-green and grey paintwork, simple blond-wood tables and stools, and no decoration beyond a few pot plants.
The menu of Afghan home cooking is equally straightforward: eight dishes (three meat, one fish, four vegetarian) of which the focus is hearty, warming stews that feature plenty of yoghurt and mint. Spicing is subtle rather than fiery. Moong dall is a comforting, thick, rich purée, while ‘Sarah’s’ combines chickpeas, kidney beans and chunks of potato in a yoghurty sauce. Meltingly soft aubergine and thick slices of orange pumpkin come drizzled in yet more yoghurt.
The best method is to come in a group, so you can share dishes – though you can order half-portions to get more variety. Sides include tangy pickles, plain rice and (in the evening) a communal loaf. Fresh-squeezed carrot juice and a few beers and wines are among the drink options, though dogh – watery, mint-inflected yoghurt – is the most refreshing choice. Bring cash as cards aren’t taken.